Batteries Plus Shoppe | Let's Talk About Batteries
Mar
05
Posted on 05-03-2010
Filed Under (Batteries) by admin on 05-03-2010
Mst5000 asked:
I read the batteries were to be replaced in 8-10 years. I just don’t want to buy a used Prius with a battery that’s about to go dead on me. Thanks.
Aleksandr
I read the batteries were to be replaced in 8-10 years. I just don’t want to buy a used Prius with a battery that’s about to go dead on me. Thanks.
Aleksandr
Mar
04
Posted on 04-03-2010
Filed Under (Batteries) by admin on 04-03-2010
ralph w asked:
My digital cameras and my cellphone use Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries. I also have a set of four rechargeable AA NiMH batteries.
My digital cameras and my cellphone use Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries. I also have a set of four rechargeable AA NiMH batteries.
With the primary goal of preserving their battery lives, what is the proper way to use and store these batteries?
Is it always best to fully charge and then fully use/discharge them before recharging?
When not in use, is it preferable to keep them fully charged or discharged? Or does it not matter?
Alasteir
Mar
03
Posted on 03-03-2010
Filed Under (Batteries) by admin on 03-03-2010
johnxuster asked:
Because of the high failure rate of fleet batteries and the uncertain situations such failures create, some organizations assign a person to maintain batteries. This person checks all batteries on a scheduled basis, exercises them for optimum service life, and replaces those that fall below an accepted capacity level and do not recover with maintenance programs. Batteries perform an important function; giving them the care they deserve is appropriate.
A personal user is one who operates a mobile phone, a laptop computer or a video camera for business or pleasure. He or she will most likely follow the recommended guidelines in caring for the battery. The user will get to know the irregularities of the battery. When the runtime gets low, the battery often gets serviced or replaced. Critical failures are rare because the owner adjusts to the performance of the battery and lowers expectations as the battery ages.
The fleet user, on the other hand, has little personal interest in the battery and is unlikely to tolerate a pack that is less than perfect. The fleet user simply grabs a battery from the charger and expects it to last through the shift. The battery is returned to the charger at the end of the day, ready for the next person. Little or no care is given to these batteries. Perhaps due to neglect, fleet batteries generally have a shorter service life than those in personal use.
How can fleet batteries be made to last longer? An interesting contrast in the handling of fleet batteries can be noted by comparing the practices of the US Army and the Dutch Army, both of which use fleet batteries. The US Army issues batteries with no maintenance program in place. If the battery fails, another pack is issued. Little or no care is given and the failure rate is high.
The Dutch Army, on the other hand, has moved away from the open fleet system by making the soldiers responsible for their batteries. This change was made in an attempt to reduce battery waste and improve reliability. The batteries are issued in the soldier?s name and the packs become part of their personal belongings. The results are startling. Since the Dutch Army adapted this new regime, the failure rate has dropped considerably and, at the same time, battery performance has increased. Unexpected down time has almost been eliminated.
It should be noted that the Dutch Army uses exclusively NiCd batteries. Each pack receives periodic maintenance to prolong service life. Weak batteries are systematically replaced. The US Army, on the other hand, uses NiMH batteries. They are evaluating the Li-ion polymer for the next generation battery.
Aldric
Because of the high failure rate of fleet batteries and the uncertain situations such failures create, some organizations assign a person to maintain batteries. This person checks all batteries on a scheduled basis, exercises them for optimum service life, and replaces those that fall below an accepted capacity level and do not recover with maintenance programs. Batteries perform an important function; giving them the care they deserve is appropriate.
A personal user is one who operates a mobile phone, a laptop computer or a video camera for business or pleasure. He or she will most likely follow the recommended guidelines in caring for the battery. The user will get to know the irregularities of the battery. When the runtime gets low, the battery often gets serviced or replaced. Critical failures are rare because the owner adjusts to the performance of the battery and lowers expectations as the battery ages.
The fleet user, on the other hand, has little personal interest in the battery and is unlikely to tolerate a pack that is less than perfect. The fleet user simply grabs a battery from the charger and expects it to last through the shift. The battery is returned to the charger at the end of the day, ready for the next person. Little or no care is given to these batteries. Perhaps due to neglect, fleet batteries generally have a shorter service life than those in personal use.
How can fleet batteries be made to last longer? An interesting contrast in the handling of fleet batteries can be noted by comparing the practices of the US Army and the Dutch Army, both of which use fleet batteries. The US Army issues batteries with no maintenance program in place. If the battery fails, another pack is issued. Little or no care is given and the failure rate is high.
The Dutch Army, on the other hand, has moved away from the open fleet system by making the soldiers responsible for their batteries. This change was made in an attempt to reduce battery waste and improve reliability. The batteries are issued in the soldier?s name and the packs become part of their personal belongings. The results are startling. Since the Dutch Army adapted this new regime, the failure rate has dropped considerably and, at the same time, battery performance has increased. Unexpected down time has almost been eliminated.
It should be noted that the Dutch Army uses exclusively NiCd batteries. Each pack receives periodic maintenance to prolong service life. Weak batteries are systematically replaced. The US Army, on the other hand, uses NiMH batteries. They are evaluating the Li-ion polymer for the next generation battery.
Aldric
Comments Off
Feb
28
Posted on 28-02-2010
Filed Under (Batteries) by admin on 28-02-2010
Christine Harrell asked:
Although a motorcycle battery and other types of vehicle batteries are built for longevity, over time batteries will slow down and eventually wear out. This occurs when the sulfate that flows over the plates begins to build up a residue on the plates, slowly diminishing the conductivity. In this article you’ll find useful information for choosing, installing, and maintaining your next motorcycle battery.
Choosing the correct size:
In order to choose the right size motorcycle battery, you’ll need to know the cold cranking amps (CCA) of your bike. Technically speaking, CCA is the number of amps a lead-acid battery at 0?F can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell. Once you determine the required CCA, you’ll need to measure the length, width, and height of the cavity to ensure a correct fit.
Removal and installation basics:
When the time comes to replace your motorcycle battery, never remove the battery while the engine is running. If for reason it does not have a charge, always remove the negative cable before the positive. When installing the new battery, reverse the order and connect the positive cable first before connecting the negative. Take extra caution to identify the positive and negative terminals before attaching the cables. Accidentally reversing the polarity can cause the battery to explode or inflict a great deal of damage to your bike’s electrical system.
Recharging:
If the battery won’t start or seems dull, you may only need to recharge it. Always check the voltage of your motorcycle battery before recharging and never charge your battery at an amperage more than 1/6 the rated capacity of your battery. For example, it you have a 7 amp-hour battery, you should not charge it at an amperage of more than 1 amps. If you have an 18 amp-hour battery, you can charge it at a maximum of 3 amps. Therefore, most battery tenders offer charging amperage of from 1/2 amp up to 2 amps. NOTE: NEVER USE AN AUTOMOBILE BATTERY CHARGER ON YOUR POWERSPORT SEALED BATTERY. Although recharging seems like a simple process, as a general rule of thumb always wear protective eye wear and refrain from smoking as you are working with explosive gasses.
You’ll also want to ensure that there is no electrolyte covering the plates before adding water or recharging. Once you add the water, make sure that the vent caps are reinstalled before charging. Never recharge a motorcycle battery or any type of vehicle battery with the vent caps open. When you’ve finished charging, turn off the charger before removing the charger cables from the motorcycle battery.
Activating your new battery:
If you recently purchased a conventional battery, you may need to activate your motorcycle battery. Activating a non-sealed battery is the process of adding acid and charging the battery to the point of optimum functionality. To do this, remove the sealing tube and filling plugs, fill the battery with electrolyte, let the battery stand for about 30 minutes, then charge the battery for 3 to 5 hours at approximately 1/6 of the rated capacity. Sealed motorcycle batteries require much less maintenance and never require additional electrolyte.
If you find yourself needing to recharge your battery on a consistent basis, it’s probably time to replace it to avoid getting stuck when you’re ready to ride. To ensure that your new battery has a long life, it’s imperative to find the right size for your bike and not to overcharge. Using a battery that is too large for your bike or overcharging the battery are the two most common causes reducing a battery’s lifespan. Spending a little time choosing the right battery now means enjoying years of enjoyable, stress-free motorcycle rides in the future..
Alessandro
Although a motorcycle battery and other types of vehicle batteries are built for longevity, over time batteries will slow down and eventually wear out. This occurs when the sulfate that flows over the plates begins to build up a residue on the plates, slowly diminishing the conductivity. In this article you’ll find useful information for choosing, installing, and maintaining your next motorcycle battery.
Choosing the correct size:
In order to choose the right size motorcycle battery, you’ll need to know the cold cranking amps (CCA) of your bike. Technically speaking, CCA is the number of amps a lead-acid battery at 0?F can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell. Once you determine the required CCA, you’ll need to measure the length, width, and height of the cavity to ensure a correct fit.
Removal and installation basics:
When the time comes to replace your motorcycle battery, never remove the battery while the engine is running. If for reason it does not have a charge, always remove the negative cable before the positive. When installing the new battery, reverse the order and connect the positive cable first before connecting the negative. Take extra caution to identify the positive and negative terminals before attaching the cables. Accidentally reversing the polarity can cause the battery to explode or inflict a great deal of damage to your bike’s electrical system.
Recharging:
If the battery won’t start or seems dull, you may only need to recharge it. Always check the voltage of your motorcycle battery before recharging and never charge your battery at an amperage more than 1/6 the rated capacity of your battery. For example, it you have a 7 amp-hour battery, you should not charge it at an amperage of more than 1 amps. If you have an 18 amp-hour battery, you can charge it at a maximum of 3 amps. Therefore, most battery tenders offer charging amperage of from 1/2 amp up to 2 amps. NOTE: NEVER USE AN AUTOMOBILE BATTERY CHARGER ON YOUR POWERSPORT SEALED BATTERY. Although recharging seems like a simple process, as a general rule of thumb always wear protective eye wear and refrain from smoking as you are working with explosive gasses.
You’ll also want to ensure that there is no electrolyte covering the plates before adding water or recharging. Once you add the water, make sure that the vent caps are reinstalled before charging. Never recharge a motorcycle battery or any type of vehicle battery with the vent caps open. When you’ve finished charging, turn off the charger before removing the charger cables from the motorcycle battery.
Activating your new battery:
If you recently purchased a conventional battery, you may need to activate your motorcycle battery. Activating a non-sealed battery is the process of adding acid and charging the battery to the point of optimum functionality. To do this, remove the sealing tube and filling plugs, fill the battery with electrolyte, let the battery stand for about 30 minutes, then charge the battery for 3 to 5 hours at approximately 1/6 of the rated capacity. Sealed motorcycle batteries require much less maintenance and never require additional electrolyte.
If you find yourself needing to recharge your battery on a consistent basis, it’s probably time to replace it to avoid getting stuck when you’re ready to ride. To ensure that your new battery has a long life, it’s imperative to find the right size for your bike and not to overcharge. Using a battery that is too large for your bike or overcharging the battery are the two most common causes reducing a battery’s lifespan. Spending a little time choosing the right battery now means enjoying years of enjoyable, stress-free motorcycle rides in the future..
Alessandro
Comments Off
Feb
24
Posted on 24-02-2010
Filed Under (Batteries) by admin on 24-02-2010
ackmondual asked:
The LED flashlight uses 4 AA. Also, the box says if you’re not gonna use the flashlight for extended periods of time, to keep the batteries out of the flashlight to prevent leakage and other bad stuff.
The LED flashlight uses 4 AA. Also, the box says if you’re not gonna use the flashlight for extended periods of time, to keep the batteries out of the flashlight to prevent leakage and other bad stuff.
Just how long of non-usage would I want to keep the batteries out?
Would I have this same concern with alkaline batteries since they’re supposed to be (more) leak proof?
Adrick